"Popeye the Sailor Meets Sinbad" - Odessy 1976

Becalmed at Sea 

Before I first met Carmel (mid 1976), I had made plans for a month's leave back in Indonesia.

I asked her to join me for the later 10 days in Bali wherein I promised to take her to places beyond the tourist domain.

She agreed.  So we made plans to travel separately and then meet on a certain day at a predetermined hotel/resort in Bali.

While in Jakarta on the first part of the holiday, Ros McGovern (my former boss in Jakarta) seconded me to accompany Lauchie Myers, an agronomist to an intergrated land development project in West Kalimantan.

I was to be his interpreter and AIDAB paid for the fare.

It was not part of my original itinerary.

I was always fascinated with the ancient sailing ships the Indonesians used to transport lumber from the jungles of Kalimantan back to Java.  They were called Prahus.

The Bugis population dominated this trade.  They were excellent seafarers, tough as nails and originated from the island of Sulawesi.

These wind powered vessels, they operated were no different from the original Arabian vessels that plied the trade routes between the Omani Empire and the Indonesian archipelago centuries centuries ago.

Sinbad the Sailor manned these vessels.  Sinbad, hero of the Arabian Nights, braved seven legendary voyages filled with giant birds, cannibals, magical islands, and perilous trials, always returning richer and wiser. His tales, rooted in medieval seafaring, highlight courage and resilience and have inspired countless retellings in literature, film, and art, securing his place as one of the world’s great adventurers.
As a boy I was captivated by stories that were contained in the Encyclopedia Britannica. 

I was now fluent in Indonesian. I had majored in Bahasa Indonesian (Grammar and Literature) and Islamic studies combined with two years as a bachelor "In Country". 
I approached the Harbour Master in Pontianak and asked that he "introduce" me to a ship's captain in order for me to negotiate passage back to Jakarta/Bali to meet up with Carmel. 

Two decades before the Bugis were classed as pirates.  So going through a government official gave me some comfort that I would have "safe passage".

It was strange.  There was no mention as to "the fare".  It was as if I was taken on as a crew member but more so as an object of intense curiosity. 

We were becalmed for ten days in the Java sea .

There was no below deck.  The boat was a floating cargo of sawn timber freshly milled in Pontianak.
Our fresh water was drawn directly from the river estuary and not boiled.  We had run dry.  No wind meant no sail shade and I became severely heat struck and terribly thirsty.

On disembarkation, I asked the captain "how much?".  He dismissed the idea.  So, two rolls of two rolls of photograhic film was my "gift". 
(Even today I reminisce at to this photographic saga - so how much more precious it might have been for the crew who may never before - had their photos taken and in colour)

I was a week overdue for my rendezvous with Carmel and had no way of getting a message.  Even when we docked at Jakarta, telecommunication with hotels in Bali still did not work.  But it was only a few hours away by plane.

I promised Carmel a memorable time - she got one.

Carmel was beside herself for most of my absence with the worst part being the waiting.

We returned to Canberra where it took me weeks to recover from the ordeal. Click here for more Photos.

Background Notes

"Bugis prahu" refers to the traditional sailing boats, or "perahu," built and used by the Bugis people of South Sulawesi, Indonesia. These boats, particularly the Padewakang and Pinisi, were crucial for the Bugis' extensive maritime trade network throughout Southeast Asia and beyond. 

Key aspects of Bugis prahu:

• Maritime Culture:
  The Bugis people are renowned for their seafaring skills and their boats played a vital role in their culture and economy. 

• Traditional Construction:
  Bugis prahu were traditionally built using wooden planks fastened with wooden pegs and dowels, without using iron nails. 

• Padewakang:
  A type of Bugis prahu, the Padewakang, was a large trading vessel known for its distinctive hull shape and tanja sail. 

• Pinisi:
  Another type of Bugis prahu, the Pinisi, is a two-masted schooner with a distinctive hull and rigging. 

• Trade and Exploration:
  Bugis prahu were used for extensive trade routes, reaching as far as Australia, where they collected trepang (sea cucumber). 

• Cultural Significance:
  The Bugis prahu is not just a boat; it represents the Bugis' maritime heritage, their connection to the sea, and their role in shaping trade and cultural exchange in the region. 

• Lambo:
  Some Bugis prahu, influenced by Western shipbuilding, are referred to as "perahu lambo," which may include features like gaff-rigged sails.